In the vast world of skincare and haircare, there are many terms that routinely show up on labels: “sulfate-free,” “SLS/SLES,” “gentle surfactants,” and so on. For many people, sulfates are the villain in their beauty routines. But what are sulfates, why are they often considered harsh and are there better alternatives? Drawing on insights from Yein&Young and Craftiviti, let’s dig into the science, effects, and substitute options and how to choose cleansers that work without damaging your skin or hair.
What are Sulfates?
Sulfates are a class of surfactants chemicals that help cleaners lather, foam and remove oil and dirt. Two of the most common are:
* SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate)
* SLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate)
These compounds are effective at removing dirt, oil, makeup, and other substances. They’re cheap, foamy, and ubiquitous in many mass-market shampoos, body washes, detergents, and toothpastes.
Why Sulfates Are Considered “Harsh”
While sulfates do their job well in terms of cleansing, their power comes with downsides. Here are key reasons they are often considered harsh:
1.Stripping Natural Oils & Disrupting Skin Barrier
Sulfates can remove the skin’s natural lipids and oils, which are essential for keeping moisture in and pathogens out. The result? Dryness, tightness, irritation. Yein&Young explicitly warns that “sulfates (like SLS/SLES) strip your natural oils and weaken the skin barrier.
2. Triggering or Exacerbating Sensitive Skin Issues
For those with sensitive skin, eczema, rosacea, or barrier-compromised skin, sulfates can cause stinging, redness, flaking, or even breakouts. The irritation isn’t just superficial; it can increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL), which further damages skin’s protective functions.
3. Drying Effects on Hair & Scalp
Overuse of sulfate-containing shampoos can leave hair brittle, dull, prone to frizz, especially if hair is color-treated or already damaged. Sulfates leave hair dry, brittle and prone to frizz.
4. Environmental Concerns
Some sulfate compounds are not easily biodegradable or may have undesirable effects on aquatic life. This is not always the case, but many “gentler” or plant-derived surfactants often have better ecological profiles.
5. pH and Irritation Potential
Many sulfate-based cleansers are formulated at higher (alkaline) pH values, which further irritates skin (which prefers mildly acidic pH ~5.5). When combined with surfactants like SLS, the mismatch in pH can compound damage.
Alternatives to Sulfates: Gentler Options
If sulfates are problematic for you (especially if you have sensitive or damaged skin/hair), here are substitutes and formulations to look for:
Also, avoiding or minimizing other irritating components (synthetic fragrances, harsh preservatives, retina, strong acids) helps when you replace sulfates.
When Sulfates Might Be “Okay”
While much of the discussion is critical of sulfates, there are circumstances when they may still be acceptable or tolerable:
* If you have very oily skin or scalp, or use heavy sunscreen/makeup, stronger cleansers may be required (but perhaps not daily with sulfate).
* Occasional use: using a sulfate‑based product occasionally (e.g. after very heavy exposure to dirt, oils) while using gentler cleansers the majority of the time.
* If the formula is well buffered (adjusted for pH), with skin‑soothing agents, moisturizers, humectants to counterbalance the drying effect.
But for people whose skin is sensitive, or have barrier damage, or use treatments like retinoids, it’s usually safer to minimize sulfates.
Impacts of Prolonged Use of Sulfates
If one uses sulfate rich cleansers frequently without adequate repair or protection, possible issues include:
1. Compromised skin barrier → increased sensitivity, more moisture loss, more reactive skin.
2. Inflammation and irritation → redness, itchiness, possibly triggers for eczema, rosacea, or breakouts.
3. Dull, brittle hair → especially if color treated or heat styled. Loss of natural oils of scalp → dryness, itch, flaking.
4. Potential for over‑production of oil as skin compensates for loss, especially in oily or combination types.
5. Long‑term skin aging effects—when barrier is damaged, external stressors (UV, pollution) have greater negative impact.
How to Identify Sulfates & Read Labels
Here are pointers for consumers:
* Look for Sodium Lauryl Sulfate (SLS) and Sodium Laureth Sulfate (SLES) — these are the most common.
* Other related surfactants: Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate, etc.
* Check for “SLS‑free / SLES‑free” or “sulfate‑free” labels. But also check the INCI behind labels.
* Check the pH of product, if available. Lower pH (around 5‑6) is gentler.
* Check whether the formula has moisturizers, humectants (e.g., glycerin, aloe) or skin conditioners. These ingredients help offset drying.
* Test sensitivity: do patch test (hairline, behind ear) first if you’re trying a new cleanser.
Yein&Young: Examples of Gentle Alternatives
These local / regional brands give great models for how to avoid or minimize the harshness of sulfates.
Yein&Young’s Approach
*Yein&Young Organic Liquid Castile Soap
Made with virgin coconut oil and virgin olive oil, vegetable-based oils that are mild and less stripping. Functions as an all‑purpose, gentle cleanser for face, body, or hands without drying the skin.
* Yein&Young Organic Shampoo – Unscented (500 ml)
Uses ingredients like Lauryl Betaine, Coco-Glucoside, Glycerine, Willow Bark Extract, Aloe Vera with no SLS/SLES. Mild cleansing that preserves the scalp’s moisture; dermatologically tested, suitable for babies and sensitive scalps.
* Yein&Young Organic Conditioner – Unscented. A blend of certified organic jojoba oil, coconut oil, argan oil (rich in fatty acids & antioxidants) for hydration and softness. Yein&Young uses gentle conditioning agents (e.g. behentrimonium methosulfate) without silicones, parabens, synthetic additives. Designed for sensitive or eczema-prone scalps; suitable for chemically treated, colored or brittle hair.
* Yein&Young Organic Lotion – Unscented
Certified organic virgin argan oil and virgin coconut oil are key emollients. Free of harsh chemicals, unscented, hypoallergenic, no synthetic fragrance, no colorants and no sulphates. Safe for babies, pregnant women, sensitive skin, dry or eczema-prone skin.
Practical Tips: Transitioning Away from Sulfates
If you’ve been using sulfate‑containing cleansers and want to switch, here are steps to do so without shocking your skin:
1. Gradual Transition: Start alternating—use a sulfate‑free or mild cleanser for one wash (e.g. evening), then use the regular one the next time. Observe how skin feels.
2. Add Moisturizers: After washing, apply humectants (hyaluronic acid, glycerin), occlusives if needed, to seal in moisture. Use gentle toners or hydrating mists.
3. Reduce Frequency: If using sulfate shampoos, don’t wash daily unless you really need to; spacing out helps.
4. Protective Products: Use leave‑in conditioners, masks, oils to restore damaged hair or skin barrier.
5. DIY Options: Brands like Craftiviti let you customise your products add soothing oils, botanicals, adjust concentration to suit your skin/hair needs.
6. Observe and Adjust: If you experience flaking, stinging, or increased sensitivity, dial back usage and see what ingredients might be triggering.
Caveats & Balanced View
* Sulfates are not inherently “evil.” They have their place where strong cleansing is needed (e.g., heavy product buildup, oily scalp).
* Some people tolerate them very well without negative effects. Skin type, climate, other products in routine matter a lot.
* Overgeneralising can lead to fear‑mongering; better to think in terms of what works for your skin/hair.
* Non‑sulfate surfactants may foam less or feel different; some people miss the “squeaky clean” feel. But a different feel doesn’t mean worse.
Check out our products on our website at Yein&Young - Back to Basics Beauty or visit our retail store at Craftivit, Level 2, Centrepoint Bandar Utama.